New link.

Be sure to check my links section. I have added a link to my Photobucket site so you can see some cool pictures of me and my work.
Larry

Knifemaking essentials part 2.

Here in my second post about the tools needed for bladesmithing I will talk about the forge.

The forge I will be describing is a Japanese style side blast forge. For the shell of this forge Im using a small steel drum cut in half length wise. I cut a notch in one side for the air supply, ( no soft rock jokes here ), and notches on each end so long blades can pass through.

The shape of the forge will be made from fire brick and adobe. To make the adobe simply mix equal parts earthen clay and sand, throw a few handfulls of wood ash and add water, dont make it too wet though or it will not hold its shape while forming. I used adobe to form the first layer and fire pot( the place where the air comes in ) and built it up with fire brick with more adobe for motar and to cover the air pipe. The pictures that follow will show the steps I took to get to the finished product.

A few important tips are, use 2 inch steel pipe for your air inlet and angle it slightly downward. Make your fire pot about 5 inches wide by 8 inches long and about 2 inches below the bottom of the pipe, I used a fire brick as a form. Let everything dry for a couple days before building your first fire.

A charcoal forge needs less air than most people think. I use an electric blower from an old wood stove and choke it down to maybe 10 % normal output. These forges use a good amount of charcoal as well so turn off your blast while your work is not in the fire.

This is a very simple forge to build and has been used to make knives and swords for ceturies, it should serve anyone who builds it well. In my next post Ill talk about the anvil as well as hammaers and tongs. Thanks for reading. If anyone needs help or advice with any of this feel free to send me an email.

Larry Sharp